Embayed beach configuration explained by wave sheltering.

ABSTRACT: Embayed beaches, characterized by their distinctive planform curvature, are a common feature along coastlines worldwide. This study introduces a novel approach to describe bay shape that extends our understanding about the processes that control embayed beach development. The novel approach was thoroughly tested against one-line models and applied to real-world cases covering a wide range of spatial scales, wave climate conditions and geomorphological settings. Here we show that the equilibrium curvature of embayed beaches can be correctly described and explained by considering headland-provided offshore wave sheltering alone, without explicitly accounting for wave shoaling, refraction, diffraction, or longshore transport. This holds true as long as the offshore wave climate is accurately

SUBMITTER: Nobre Silva A 

PROVIDER: S-EPMC10784308 | biostudies-literature | 2024 Jan

REPOSITORIES: biostudies-literature