Measuring critical force in sport climbers: a validation study of the 4 min all-out test on finger flexors.

ABSTRACT:

Purpose

The critical force (CF) concept, differentiating steady and non-steady state conditions, extends the critical power paradigm for sport climbing. This study aimed to validate CF for finger flexors derived from the 4 min all-out test as a boundary for the highest sustainable work intensity in sport climbers.

Methods

Twelve participants underwent multiple laboratory visits. Initially, they performed the 4 min intermittent contraction all-out test for CF determination. Subsequent verification visits involved finger-flexor contractions at various intensities, including CF, CF -2 kg, CF -4 kg, and CF -6 kg, lasting for 720 s or until failure, while monitoring muscle-oxygen dynamics of forearm muscles.

Results

CF, determined from the mean force of last three contract

SUBMITTER: Balas J 

PROVIDER: S-EPMC11365833 | biostudies-literature | 2024 Sep

REPOSITORIES: biostudies-literature