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Antioxidants in Sunscreens: Which and What For?

ABSTRACT: Ultraviolet (UV) radiation promotes the generation of reactive oxygen species (ROS) and nitrogen species (RNS), resulting in skin damage. Cosmetic industries have adopted a strategy to incorporate antioxidants in sunscreen formulations to prevent or minimize UV-induced oxidative damage, boost photoprotection effectiveness, and mitigate skin photoaging. Many antioxidants are naturally derived, mainly from terrestrial plants; however, marine organisms have been increasingly explored as a source of new potent antioxidant molecules. This work aims to characterize the frequency of the use of antioxidants in commercial sunscreens. Photoprotective formulations currently marketed in parapharmacies and pharmacies were analyzed with respect to the composition described on the label. As a result, pure compounds with antioxidant activity were found. The majority of sunscreen formulations contained antioxidants, with vitamin E and its derivatives the most frequent. A more thorough analysis of these antioxidants is also provided, unveiling the top antioxidant ingredients found in sunscreens. A critical appraisal of the scientific evidence regarding their effectiveness is also performed. In conclusion, this work provides an up-to-date overview of the use of antioxidants in commercial sunscreens for a better understanding of the advantages associated with their use in photoprotective formulations.

SUBMITTER: Jesus A

PROVIDER: S-EPMC9854756 | biostudies-literature | 2023 Jan

REPOSITORIES: biostudies-literature

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Antioxidants in Sunscreens: Which and What For?

Jesus Ana A Mota Sandra S Torres Ana A Cruz Maria T MT Sousa Emília E Almeida Isabel F IF Cidade Honorina H

Antioxidants (Basel, Switzerland) 20230106 1

Ultraviolet (UV) radiation promotes the generation of reactive oxygen species (ROS) and nitrogen species (RNS), resulting in skin damage. Cosmetic industries have adopted a strategy to incorporate antioxidants in sunscreen formulations to prevent or minimize UV-induced oxidative damage, boost photoprotection effectiveness, and mitigate skin photoaging. Many antioxidants are naturally derived, mainly from terrestrial plants; however, marine organisms have been increasingly explored as a source of ...[more]

PMID: 36670999

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Project description:Excessive ultraviolet radiation (UVR) exposure of the skin is associated with adverse clinical outcomes. Although both exogenous sunscreens and endogenous tissue components (including melanins and tryptophan-derived compounds) reduce UVR penetration, the role of endogenous proteins in absorbing environmental UV wavelengths is poorly defined. Having previously demonstrated that proteins which are rich in UVR-absorbing amino acid residues are readily degraded by broadband UVB-radiation (containing UVA, UVB and UVC wavelengths) here we hypothesised that UV chromophore (Cys, Trp and Tyr) content can predict the susceptibility of structural proteins in skin and the eye to damage by physiologically relevant doses (up to 15.4 J/cm(2)) of solar UVR (95% UVA, 5% UVB). We show that: i) purified suspensions of UV-chromophore-rich fibronectin dimers, fibrillin microfibrils and β- and γ-lens crystallins undergo solar simulated radiation (SSR)-induced aggregation and/or decomposition and ii) exposure to identical doses of SSR has minimal effect on the size or ultrastructure of UV chromophore-poor tropoelastin, collagen I, collagen VI microfibrils and α-crystallin. If UV chromophore content is a factor in determining protein stability in vivo, we would expect that the tissue distribution of Cys, Trp and Tyr-rich proteins would correlate with regional UVR exposure. From bioinformatic analysis of 244 key structural proteins we identified several biochemically distinct, yet UV chromophore-rich, protein families. The majority of these putative UV-absorbing proteins (including the late cornified envelope proteins, keratin associated proteins, elastic fibre-associated components and β- and γ-crystallins) are localised and/or particularly abundant in tissues that are exposed to the highest doses of environmental UVR, specifically the stratum corneum, hair, papillary dermis and lens. We therefore propose that UV chromophore-rich proteins are localised in regions of high UVR exposure as a consequence of an evolutionary pressure to express sacrificial protein sunscreens which reduce UVR penetration and hence mitigate tissue damage.

Project description:Mycosporine-like amino acids (MAAs) are a family of water-soluble and colorless secondary metabolites, with high extinction coefficients, that function as microbial sunscreens. MAAs share a cyclohexinimine chromophore that is diversified through amino acid substitutions and attachment of sugar moieties. The genetic and enzymatic bases for the chemical diversity of MAAs remain largely unexplored. Here we report a series of structurally distinct MAAs and evidence for an unusual branched biosynthetic pathway from a cyanobacterium isolated from lake sediment. We used a combination of high-resolution liquid chromatography-mass spectrometry (HR-LCMS) analysis and nuclear magnetic resonance (NMR) spectroscopy to identify diglycosylated-palythine-Ser (C22H36N2O15) as the dominant chemical variant in a series of MAAs from Nostoc sp. UHCC 0302 that contained either Ser or Thr. We obtained a complete 9.9 Mb genome sequence to gain insights into the genetic basis for the biosynthesis of these structurally distinct MAAs. We identified MAA biosynthetic genes encoded at two locations on the circular chromosome. Surprisingly, direct pathway cloning and heterologous expression of the complete mysABCJ 1 D 1 G 1 H biosynthetic gene cluster in Escherichia coli (E. coli) led to the production of 450 Da monoglycosylated-palythine-Thr (C18H30N2O11). We reconstructed combinations of the two distant biosynthetic gene clusters in refactored synthetic pathways and expressed them in the heterologous host. These results demonstrated that the MysD1 and MysD2 enzymes displayed a preference for Thr and Ser, respectively. Furthermore, one of the four glycosyltransferases identified, MysG1, was active in E. coli and catalysed the attachment of a hexose moiety to the palythine-Thr intermediate. Together these results provide the first insights into the enzymatic basis for glycosylation of MAAs and demonstrates how paralogous copies of the MysD enzymes allow the simultaneous biosynthesis of specific chemical variants to increase the structural variation in this family of microbial sunscreens.

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Antioxidants in Sunscreens: Which and What For?

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Antioxidants in Sunscreens: Which and What For?

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